Zo Skin Health is a skincare brand that’s been highly-lauded by reviewers. Their products have won awards from Cosmopolitan, Reader’s Digest and Good Housekeeping. The brand suggests that their products have an anti-aging effect, and that they may shield the body from signs of aging in a proactive capacity.
In this article we’ll review the ingredients in Zo Skin Health’s best-selling products based on published medical research to determine if we believe they’re properly formulated for anti-aging effect. We’ll highlight reviews from real users and suggest some alternatives we believe may be superior.
Zo Skin Health Exfoliating Polish Review
One of Zo Skin Health’s most popular products is an exfoliating polish. The brand claims that the magnesium oxide crystals in the formulation “slough away dead skin cells” which has the effect of “leaving skin instantly soft and smooth.” The brand does not cite these claims, and we cannot find any medical research suggesting that topical magnesium oxide has any beneficial dermatological effects.
One of the first active ingredients in Zo Skin Health Exfoliating Polish is sodium bicarbonate, and we do not understand this inclusion in a skincare formulation. The only medical trial we could find on topical sodium bicarbonate found the ingredient ineffective at improving symptoms of psoriasis.
One potentially effective ingredient is Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil. This essential oil may be effective at improving damaged skin. A medical review on tea tree oil for dermatological conditions found that early research proved this botanical compound effective at treating acne and skin lesions due to its antibacterial effect.
Our only issue with this ingredient listing on Zo Skin Health’s site is that the concentration isn’t listed. Tea tree oil, like most essential oils, is effective in a narrow range of concentrations and may be damaging to skin at too high of a concentration. For this reason cosmetics manufacturers should always list the concentration of essential oils.
Glycerin is an effective and common active ingredient in this formulation which is proven to positively impact skin hydration and skin barrier function.
This product contains an interesting compound called Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate which is an ester of Vitamin C. Zo Skin Health claims this ingredient “helps to brighten skin” however we would disagree with this assessment.
A medical review of this ingredient published in 2021 in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences suggested that this compound was likely ineffective for improving skin quality unless another stabilizing compound was included in the formulation (which Zo Skin Health Exfoliating Polish doesn’t have): “[Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate] may itself lack stability within the dermal microenvironment. This study showed that [tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate] has limited oxygen radical absorbance capacity and undergoes rapid degradation when exposed to singlet oxygen…This degradation, however, could be prevented by the addition of acetyl zingerone.”
This serum also has several ingredients that we recommend consumers avoid for health reasons. Fragrance provides no dermatological benefits and may be unsafe. As we discussed at length in our recent review of Nexxus Shampoo, another personal care product containing fragrance, this ingredient may be harmful to human health based on medical research.
This formulation also contains an artificial dye Green 5 which we rarely have seen in skincare products. We would strongly recommend that consumers avoid putting products with artificial dye on their face. Artificial dyes can be absorbed through skin according to medical research, and may be harmful to human health. The study authors of the linked research review state the following: “The consuming public is largely unaware of the perilous truth behind the deceptive allure of artificial color.”
Overall we find this to be a poor formulation and definitely worse than the majority of skincare products we’ve reviewed. We cannot identify one single active ingredient with a documented anti-aging effect, and the product contains several ingredients we would recommend avoiding for health reasons.
There are a few ingredients which may benefit skin health in this product, but for a price of $68 for 2.3 ounces (oz) we would expect a much better formulation.
Zo Skin Health Growth Factor Serum
Growth Factor Serum is the second-most-reviewed product on Zo Skin Health’s site, with 701 reviews. It’s also on their best-seller list. The brand claims that this product can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
This formulation contains a novel compound called hydrolyzed sericin which is an effective anti-aging ingredient. A recent medical review documented the cosmetic benefits of this compound. It has anti-wrinkle effects when applied topically, and can also cause an increase in skin hydration and elasticity.
Another efficacious ingredient in this serum is dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate. This compound was studied in a formulation used in a clinical trial for its effects on facial wrinkles and demonstrated positive effects. 86% of patients reported reduced wrinkles around the eyes after 3 months of treatment with this ingredient, and 71% of patients reported reduced wrinkles around the upper lip.
The study authors also reported clinical improvements in wrinkles which matched those reported by the participants. We cannot assign these results to the dipeptide ingredient alone, but it’s still promising early research.
Tocopherol is included in this formulation, and it’s a good choice for a topical serum because of its photoprotective effects. As referenced in our Beautycounter reviews article, this ingredient has significant medical backing for its ability to reduce the damaging effects of UV rays on skin.
Unfortunately, like the Exfoliating Polish, this product contains fragrance. The serum does not contain any artificial dyes which makes it a safer choice than the previous product reviewed in our opinion.
We do believe that this formulation is likely to be effective for anti-aging because it has multiple ingredients proven in legitimate medical studies to be effective for that outcome.
Questionable Efficacy Claims
Zo Skin Health has a page on their site called “Clinical Proof.” It lists statistics about the supposed efficacy of some of their products based on clinical trials. The problem is the claims are entirely uncited. The brand is just stating statistics claiming their products work without linking to the studies proving their products work.
We find this practice to be deceptive and misleading. Claims of clinical efficacy without proof are unacceptable in our opinion. You cannot claim your product is proven to work and highlight stats without linking to the research so that consumers and researchers can evaluate for themselves.
Usually at the very least a skincare brand will link out to some research funded by a for-profit research firm. Even if this research is not published in any legitimate scientific journals, it still allows consumers to review the study themselves to come to a conclusion. But these efficacy claims entirely without citation made by Zo Skin Health are not something we come across often, and we consider this a serious red flag.
Zo Skin Health User Reviews
Zo Skin Health is sold on Amazon as well as their website, which provides a way to assess user reviews. We tend to believe that Amazon reviews are more legitimate on average than reviews on company websites, as they’re more difficult to game.
The Exfoliating Polish we reviewed at the outset of this article has relatively positive reviews on Amazon. It scores a 4.8 out of 5 stars, with 554 overall reviews. This is one of the highest reviews we’ve seen of products we’ve analyzed.
The top positive review of the product from a verified purchaser comes from an anonymous Amazon Customer who claims the product has had an anti-aging effect:
“My aesthetician introduced me to the product and naturally when I ran out I turned Amazon to re-order. My complexion is much clearer dark spots have faded and my skin tone is smoother. I highly recommend this product!”
The top negative review from a verified purchaser is written by a user named “Eva” who claims that the product is illegitimate and not from the real manufacturer:
“I have used Z products and usually I buy it from my dermatologist, however, this time I ordered from Amazon seller. The product is diluted not 100% the real product, the box is Z obagi but the first impression when you see the box you would know that it was used and diluted.”
The product receives a B grade from FakeSpot which is a good sign that the majority of the reviews are legitimate. FakeSpot is a software tool that detects manipulation of Amazon reviews.
YouTube Unsponsored Review
One of the most popular reviews of Zo Skin Health is published by a channel called “Sydney Nicole.” She claims the review is unsponsored. She provides before-and-after videos and explains whether or not she believes the brand is worth the money:
Zo Skin Health Pros and Cons
Here’s our take on the pros and cons of this brand generally:
Pros:
- Some effective ingredients
- Growth Factor Serum is well-formulated for efficacy
- Positive user reviews
Cons:
- Contains fragrance
- One best-seller contains artificial dye
- Relatively expensive
- Claims of clinical efficacy without proof
